Amed – July 14/2011
Up at 3am, an illegal cart ride down the soi, instant taxi ride from a driver who surprisingly didn’t appear to be drunk at 4am and I arrive at the airport in one piece. I was sure that my bag, bursting at the seams with dive gear and yoga mats and running shoes (all the fixings for a 18 day journey that will hopefully end with me a few pounds lighter and my dive log a few pages fuller). The flight here was only as can be expected on Air Asia, cheap and uncomfortable but one can’t complain since less leg room and “reclining seats” which recline only to what other airlines would consider and upright position equals more room in the wallet and consequently more time underwater – which is primarily the reason I’ve come here. I figured if one must travel alone then they might as well spend time in the company of fish.
Much to my relief I was picked up at the airport on time and didn’t have to wait or stress about how on earth I was going to make the 3 hour journey from Denpasar to Amed. There was a glimmer of recognition in the eyes of Made the driver but he kept conversation to a minimum while we snaked our way along Bali’s coastline. This was most likely due to my somewhat comatose condition after my long morning journey and admittedly I wasn’t much in the mood for talking. Things were as I remembered them, I recognized many of the turns and twists along the road between Candidasa and Amed and could fit moments from last summer into the twists and turns of the winding road between Amed and the elusive bank machines of Amlapura. Everything seemed to be as I left it 12 months ago. Coming to Bali is always a shock after the urban sprawl of Bangkok. I often say that my next dream place of residence would be Bali but I must admit that it will take some getting used to the lack of urban sprawl. No skyscrapers is good for the soul though and considering the only development to escape to are the festering streets of Kuta I'm pretty sure I'll be happy to snuggle down in things less developed and stay there :)
I finally arrived at Teman-Teman in Jemeluk, Amed at about noon to the coos and giggles of the owner and his family who remembered me from last year. Apparently I wasn’t easily forgotten since one of the boys who worked here last year (whom I will call “Wheels” from here on in) decided that he wanted to win my heart so that we could get married, make 4000 babies and live happily ever after in the villages of Bali. Sadly, for him this did not happen. Anyway, I found out on arrival that he no longer works in Amed which was a bit disappointing since he was a very nice guy, a good friend and a lovely guitar player who kept me entertained with music and local parties when I was here last. Regardless, the staff here who call me “Joey” were besides themselves yabbering in Indonesian, or perhaps it was Balinese because I understood none of it except for “Joey” and ““Wheels”” and asking me if I still talked to him and telling me all the details of where he was now. Not surprisingly, when I emerged from my bungalow 2 hours later after a much needed nap, I was presented with his phone number and address and that he had been fully briefed via text message that I am back in town and he is eagerly expecting a visit when I end up in Sanur.
What I’ve realized in my few hours of time here is that I am going to need a bit of time to adjust to being on my own after being in the company of many for the last 10 months. Amed is quiet, I might even say it’s beyond quiet. I guess “Wheels” was a bit of a godsend when I was stuck here for a week last year. I managed to meet all the locals and gain invites to every beach party that birthed itself on the black rocky beaches of Jemeluk. Apparently I have not been forgotten either since as I walked down to the dive centre about 10 minutes from my hotel I was stopped by 2 people yelling “JOEY!” Clearly the complete lack of recognition in my eyes didn’t register as they excitedly welcomed me back to Amed and grilled me about whether me and “Wheels” still talk (small town gossip). I also received 2 invites to full moon parties on the beach tonight but I am going to bypass since the men here tend to be oversexed and for sure only have one thing on their minds. I used the excuse that I have to dive early in the morning to get out of it. I have a feeling that the next 4 days will be a bit of an exercise in ducking and dodging on my part.
So now I’m sitting here at 9pm, full moon, beer Bintang in hand getting lost in my thoughts. Hopefully I don’t get too lost…time alone can be dangerous and once lost in the catacombs of all the shit I try not to think about, I may not make it out in one piece. 8am tomorrow I’ll be hitting the open sea with a dive at Amed dropoff and then to the Japanese shipwreck a short drive away. Unfortunately it’s the full moon which mean weird tides and often limited visibility but better for it to be showing up at the beginning of my trip rather than the end. Keep your fingers crossed that my ears cooperate and I can make it through my 20+ dives over the next 18 days in one piece.
Cheers from the village that clearly never forgets
J
Up at 3am, an illegal cart ride down the soi, instant taxi ride from a driver who surprisingly didn’t appear to be drunk at 4am and I arrive at the airport in one piece. I was sure that my bag, bursting at the seams with dive gear and yoga mats and running shoes (all the fixings for a 18 day journey that will hopefully end with me a few pounds lighter and my dive log a few pages fuller). The flight here was only as can be expected on Air Asia, cheap and uncomfortable but one can’t complain since less leg room and “reclining seats” which recline only to what other airlines would consider and upright position equals more room in the wallet and consequently more time underwater – which is primarily the reason I’ve come here. I figured if one must travel alone then they might as well spend time in the company of fish.
Much to my relief I was picked up at the airport on time and didn’t have to wait or stress about how on earth I was going to make the 3 hour journey from Denpasar to Amed. There was a glimmer of recognition in the eyes of Made the driver but he kept conversation to a minimum while we snaked our way along Bali’s coastline. This was most likely due to my somewhat comatose condition after my long morning journey and admittedly I wasn’t much in the mood for talking. Things were as I remembered them, I recognized many of the turns and twists along the road between Candidasa and Amed and could fit moments from last summer into the twists and turns of the winding road between Amed and the elusive bank machines of Amlapura. Everything seemed to be as I left it 12 months ago. Coming to Bali is always a shock after the urban sprawl of Bangkok. I often say that my next dream place of residence would be Bali but I must admit that it will take some getting used to the lack of urban sprawl. No skyscrapers is good for the soul though and considering the only development to escape to are the festering streets of Kuta I'm pretty sure I'll be happy to snuggle down in things less developed and stay there :)
I finally arrived at Teman-Teman in Jemeluk, Amed at about noon to the coos and giggles of the owner and his family who remembered me from last year. Apparently I wasn’t easily forgotten since one of the boys who worked here last year (whom I will call “Wheels” from here on in) decided that he wanted to win my heart so that we could get married, make 4000 babies and live happily ever after in the villages of Bali. Sadly, for him this did not happen. Anyway, I found out on arrival that he no longer works in Amed which was a bit disappointing since he was a very nice guy, a good friend and a lovely guitar player who kept me entertained with music and local parties when I was here last. Regardless, the staff here who call me “Joey” were besides themselves yabbering in Indonesian, or perhaps it was Balinese because I understood none of it except for “Joey” and ““Wheels”” and asking me if I still talked to him and telling me all the details of where he was now. Not surprisingly, when I emerged from my bungalow 2 hours later after a much needed nap, I was presented with his phone number and address and that he had been fully briefed via text message that I am back in town and he is eagerly expecting a visit when I end up in Sanur.
What I’ve realized in my few hours of time here is that I am going to need a bit of time to adjust to being on my own after being in the company of many for the last 10 months. Amed is quiet, I might even say it’s beyond quiet. I guess “Wheels” was a bit of a godsend when I was stuck here for a week last year. I managed to meet all the locals and gain invites to every beach party that birthed itself on the black rocky beaches of Jemeluk. Apparently I have not been forgotten either since as I walked down to the dive centre about 10 minutes from my hotel I was stopped by 2 people yelling “JOEY!” Clearly the complete lack of recognition in my eyes didn’t register as they excitedly welcomed me back to Amed and grilled me about whether me and “Wheels” still talk (small town gossip). I also received 2 invites to full moon parties on the beach tonight but I am going to bypass since the men here tend to be oversexed and for sure only have one thing on their minds. I used the excuse that I have to dive early in the morning to get out of it. I have a feeling that the next 4 days will be a bit of an exercise in ducking and dodging on my part.
So now I’m sitting here at 9pm, full moon, beer Bintang in hand getting lost in my thoughts. Hopefully I don’t get too lost…time alone can be dangerous and once lost in the catacombs of all the shit I try not to think about, I may not make it out in one piece. 8am tomorrow I’ll be hitting the open sea with a dive at Amed dropoff and then to the Japanese shipwreck a short drive away. Unfortunately it’s the full moon which mean weird tides and often limited visibility but better for it to be showing up at the beginning of my trip rather than the end. Keep your fingers crossed that my ears cooperate and I can make it through my 20+ dives over the next 18 days in one piece.
Cheers from the village that clearly never forgets
J
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